Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
