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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.